Highly Exciting Lotus Make-Up India Fashion Week 2019 Ends 
| Onkareshwar Pandey, Editor in Chief, IOP - 23 Mar 2019

Highly Exciting Lotus Make-Up India Fashion Week 2019 Ends 

The Four-day Lotus Make-Up India Fashion Week Autumn Winter’ 2019 (LMIFW AW’19)

was held in Jawahar Lal Nehru Stadium, New Delhi from March 13 to 17.

  

By Leela Gajra with Photo Journalist Sujan Singh

 New Delhi, March 23, 2019: Fashion Design Council’s Lotus Make-Up India Fashion Week, a four-day event, was held from March 13 to 17 at Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium in Delhi. Prominent fashion designers like Rahul Mishra, Samant Chauhan. Rina Dhaka, Shalini James, Sahil Kocchar and Namrata Joshipura, among others showcased their collection at the fashion week event this year.

“While designers like Manoviraj Khosla went off the beaten path with florals for men, others like Dolly J and Kommal and Ratul Sood pulled out all the stops for clothes that spelt glamour and drama,” writes Rashmi Rajagopal Lobo in indulgexpress.com .

Day one of the Autumn Winter Lotus-Makeup India Fashion Week (LMIFW) was high on sustainable and eco-friendly fashion. In fact this was an interesting and special shift in this year’s event, when the designers focused on green fashion sustainability, and environmental consciousness.
Interestingly, on the first day designers took a pledge with Nobel Peace Prize winner Kailash Satyarthi, a child rights activist who is fighting for under age labour to have a chance at a childhood.
This was very important because we all know that the garment production units regularly employ children below the legal age as cheap labour sources, unfortunately, and Kailash Satyarthi has dedicated his life to put an end to it.

Several important designers like Rahul Mishra, Namrata Joshipura, Varun Bahl and Pankaj & Nidhi were present for the ceremony.
Day two of the Lotus Make-Up India Fashion Week Autumn Winter’ 2019 was an ode to the likes of ivory and white,colours, structured silhouettes, pop-cultural trends and voluminous sheer textures, traditional motifs, metallic foil prints and modern industrial art. It is fascinating to see the idea of design and the parallel storytelling around it.


Huemn’s Fall 19 paid homage to the raw energy of the youth of Kashmir with a play of contrasts and set against the backdrop of a beautiful, bountifulconflict ridden landscape. The entire line is a play of contrasts and strong references from the popular 90s sneaker culture trend reflecting in the garments in terms of shapes, cuts and silhouettes in denim and fleece. The essence of gender neutrality was well-narrated and it is about time to understand fashion with a bigger message, a stronger voice,” Srishti Jha reported in Hindustan Times.

 Designers like Samant Chauhan, Sumeet Verma and more presented a spectacular show on the Day two of Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week. Moreover, celebrities like Karisma Kapoor, Swara Bhaskar, Rakul Preet and more walked the runway as showstoppers. The day two saw structured silhouettes, traditional motifs, and the pop-cultural trend with a lot of storytelling.

Day three of Lotus Make-Up India Fashion Week autumn/winter 2019 saw a mix of several different aesthetics. While designer Vineet Bahl presented a print-heavy,desert-inspired collection featuring, both Pankaj & Nidhi and Namrata Joshipura went for embellishment and shimmer this season. The designer, who’s best known for her party-ready creations, presented a collection that was as eye-catching as it was wearable.


Designer Vineet Bahl’s autumn/winter 2019 collection titled ‘Safari Soirée’ championed print-on-print.Colours of the desert dominated his collection, which came in a palette of orange, white, yellow and scarlet. But that’s not all. Along with layering, Bahl’s latest offering also featured nautical elements for a fun twist.

And finally, on the last day of the four-day-long Lotus Make-Up India Fashion Week had the strongest lineup of all days with Shivan & Narresh’s Gond art inspired to a decadent Rainbow-themed grand finale.

Drawing inspiration from the Gond Art of the Koi tribes, the designer duo Shivan & Narresh, one of the most anticipated shows on the schedule, presented a collection featuring six new prints this time, which they
conceptualised with a Gond artist. There was a mix of influences here, from the designer’s childhood in Madhya Pradesh to the spice markets of Istanbul and even Spain.

Inspired from Dadaism Pratima Pandey’s collection “Ektara” AW19 uses Maheshwari Handloom lines juxtaposing the various shades of life withbursts of floral embroideries.

Witness -Kurta set. Sweater. Dress. Jacket. Sari. Shawl. Pratima Pandey is a NIFT, alumni and winner of Grazia Young Awards in 2011 in the category of eco-friendly fashion. Her label Prama lays emphasis on natural fabrics and indigenous embroidery techniques thereby encouraging craftsmanship and sustainability.

Designer Vaishali Shadangule’s Bisra collection was a contemporary take on traditional aesthetics of the Khunn textile and the current understanding of fashion on a global scale.

Talking about BISRA, a forgotten tradition, Vaishali says, “I observed the same when I recently visited Guledgudda, a small but historically rich oasis of fabric in Karnataka, where the art of the centuries old weave “KHUN” has been close to death.”

“Despite being a symbol of cultural and spiritual significance for centuries, the modernity has shrunk KHUNN to just a few looms today in a small village called GULEDGUDDA in Karnataka. Thus, this collection BISRA (Forgotten one) is a desperate attempt to seek attention of the fashion world to the charismatic charm and glory KHUNN inherits, vaishali says.

  

Vaishali’s collection is a modern interpretation of traditional aesthetics and exploration
of  relevance to
contemporary understanding of global fashion. The collection is a compilation of modern silhouettes to translate the glory and deep cultural significance of  the textile KHUNN. The color story includes pink, orange, green, red and a few more bright colors as identity of khand.

Designer Dhruv Kapoor presented a collection titled ‘New-Butch’ for spring/summer 2019. While the collection mainly comprised of printed dresses, sequinned skirts and suits, trench coats and fluid
separates, it also featured a strong influence of the ’80s, with bold floral prints in bright yellows, oranges and blues.

 For the season finale, 41 designers came together to present the Rainbow Show in support of the abolishment of Section 377. The stage was set, and hits by Madonna and George Michael had the audience tapping their
feat as models showcased each designer’s interpretation of the universal colours of Pride.

 From Manish Malhora’s stunning sari, Rajesh Pratap Singh’s colourful number to Gaurav Gupta’s reiteration of the sari, each and every designer presented a garment that showcased their support for the LGBTQIA+ community. The large set of models also included individuals who identified as a wide spectrum of genders. Watch the highlights in the video.    

 Here’s a roundup of some of the hottest collections at the Lotus Make-Up India Fashion Week Autumn Winter’ 2019(LMIFW AW’19) :

With a lot of florals, distortion of line and prints with bold tribal prints, cowl necks, big shoulders, big sleeves and asymmetrical skirts on the runway, famous fashion designer Rina Dhaka again proved here uniqueness in her creations.

Following a gothic theme, Fashion designer Kommal and Ratul Sood’s collection was heavy on velvet. Hues such as brown, green, aubergine and teal were seen on jackets, trousers and suits, giving them a luxe, festive-ready look. Nitin Bal Chauhan, Kommal and Ratul Sood paid special attention to monochromatic colour schemes. While the former turned heads with black sketch prints against white backgrounds, the latter created a striking look with a co-ordinated ensemble of jacket, trousers and shirt in the same print.

Fashion designer Shalini James’s collection featured dark, mysterious forest colours in natural dyes, like jackal brown, peacock blue, berry red, acai green and sultry indigo. Her collection was inspired by Chitrakoot, a forested town in Madhya Pradesh.

 In Fashion designer Pallavi Mohan’s feathers, used as luxe embellishments sheer and metallic gowns, continues to be huge for winter. Boasting a jewel-toned colour scheme, the collection is inspired by Simply Studio 54, a glamorous Manhattan nightclub and discotheque popular in the ’70s.

Pleated frills and ruffles were a prominent feature of Fashion designer Dolly J’s collection. Red carpet-ready gowns with asymmetrical hems were paired with intricate ruffled detailing on the body and skirt in a cascading effect.

Fashion designer Amrich by Amit and Richard went with large box checks on handloomed and handwoven fabrics to create an impression on the runway. A co-ordinated jacket and trouser ensemble of black and white box checks was the defining look.

The Bohemian aesthetic is perfect for summer but fashion designer Vineet Bahl made it work for Autumn/Winter with his collection of vintage floral-printed dresses, baggy trousers and tunics. There was also a focus on embroidered detailing and voluminous sleeves.

Fashion designer Manoviraj Khosla and Charu Parashar threw out the rulebooks and went with fall florals for men. In Manoviraj’s collection, floral embroidery and prints found their way onto leather and waterfall jackets. Charu, on the other hand, stuck to dark floral prints on athleisure jackets and track pants.

Designer Samant Chauhan, keeping his focus on sustainable fashion, came up with minimalistic prints that looked big on the runway. Hues of white with red and black to break the monotony dominated his collection.

Fashion designer Sahil Kocchar’s collection ‘Hridya’ was about environment-friendly fabrics, presented in a gamut of colours ranging from mustard stripes, pink, pristine ivory, and deep blue.

As per the Fashion designer Rahul Mishra, his collection, this year looks back on a decade-long journey that began with the exploration of an important fact of life – metamorphosis. The creations at the runway saw interesting contrasts and mix of fabrics, geometric prints, asymmetrical cuts that combined Eastern mysticism with Western meticulousness and highlighted the overlap.

For famous fashion designer Rahul Mishra, who completed 10 years in the fashion industry, the show was a walk down the memory lane – Retrospection- Metamorphosis &  Reinvention. It was all about going back to the roots on the lines of retrospection, metamorphosis and reinvention. His collection included a variety of fabrics and techniques, from gossamer tulle and organza to lush velvets along with traditional aari work with resham thread work, to French knots inspired by pointillism art. Mythic, elegant and an ode to the evolving design aesthetics. 

“I grew up in the sleepy village of Malhausi, some 83 kms from Kanpur City. I set out in life armed with a degree in Physics. But, the scholastic facts that stimulated the mind of a young man, did not compare to the grandmothers’ stories that nourished the soul of a young boy. What was simply a delightful recreational activity in childhood, became a precious treasure trove of inspiration to deal with existential philosophies of adulthood. The artistic genesis of life, the spirituality in its pre-ordained symphony, the role of change in igniting its versatility – they all began to captivate me,” says Rahul Mishra.

His collection looks back on a decade-long journey, that began with the exploration of an important fact of life – metamorphosis. I didn’t consciously intend to make the concept a brand signature when I launched ‘The Butterfly Effect’ back in 2010. Maybe, it has become one, because that first exploration was honest, straight from the heart; and steeped in the metamorphosis of the Artist from the Physicist.

“Since I’m learning something new every day, this metamorphosis is continuous – both within me and within the brand., “Rahul Mishra said.

Designer Suket Dhir, who also focused on environmental-friendly fabrics and sustainable fashion, came up with a collection that displayed fashion forward and minimal wastage designs – ranging from casual wears to formals.

Suket Dhir’s collection, ‘He for She’ looked at menswear silhouettes for women. Blazers, Bombers, blazers, shirts
and trousers all in narrow fits and simple structures was a powerful take on gender-neutral fashion.

Amita Gupta’s Sustainable has worked towards the amalgamation of two contrasts. For a woman who is gentle yet bold and experimental at heart.  Something as ethereal and noble as Silk and Zari is mingling with the bold and resilient Denim to create a collection for the modern woman. Hand woven by the weavers of Banaras, the collection aims to fuse together opposites in the most effortless yet poised way possible.

ARCVSH by designer Pallavi Singh focused on using materials that are less hazardous in nature in interesting silhouettes and patterns.

According to Pallavi Singh, “Our AW’19 collection is an inspiration from the thought – “The beautiful Lifestyles that we have created and enjoying by imprinting a rather devastating and catastrophic impact on our Environment and its Natural resources leading to cease its own Existence”. She further syas, “We are in Charge-Now” as our collection expresses is how we would like to remind ourselves at least on our stand against the Earth’s Questionable future as we are experiencing it today and calls for a conscious effort in using the materials that has the least impact on earth if discarded.

We see it should be more of a practice than an ideology. And we strongly feel, it's time now to take Re-usability/Sustainability up as primary focus and implement as part of our Design creation and our overall business operations. It has become intrinsic to Fashion now more than ever. It is the need of the hour as this is the way the fashion should pave its way out for future, as it helps reduce the waste and chemicals generated every year to support the clothing industry.”

Designer Diksha Khanna’s HADITH - a desert storm is an interpretation of denim and intricate knits
was quite a fresh take on the material and gave the fabric a new spin with crocheted patchwork textures, cross stitch embroideries in a peculiar style.

In Diksha Khanna’s work, the mysterious, narrow bylanes serpenting through Doha and Oman, can be imagined in yellowing history books as they reveal, there is more than what meets eye.

Imagine this interpreted through the prism of Zari as it meets Khadi and Denim this season. Three elements that are disparate, yet they amalgamate seamlessly, almost becoming soulmates. The meandering pathways through
souks, and the multisensory overload of travelling through these Arab provinces inspires the Autumn Winter 2019 range of womenswear. An intriguing mix of the ancient and the uber-modern in the pockets of bygone eras in the urban centres are like time capsules, where one can disappear for a bit, and then return to the present. 

Designer duo Pankaj & Nidhi’s autumn/winter 2019 showcase highlighted the brand’s forté—surface embellishment. The collection was inspired by the duo’s recent visit to the Rijksmuseum museum in Amsterdam, Netherlands.

Diksha Khanna’s ripped denim sari, worn by the likes of Sonam Kapoor Ahuja, quickly won fashion’s
favour. The designer returned to the autumn/winter 2019 runway with another collection that championed denim—there were a few denim saris in the line-up, use of crochet, draped silhouettes in white and shimmering pantsuits. Inspired by the Middle East, the collection hit t he spot for modest dressing. 

This year, Liva, a new age fabric from the Aditya Birla Group, had announced its partnership with Fashion Design Council of India’s (FDCI) to showcase India’s first Green Heart Fashion Show with a thought leading initiative to promote the concept of sustainability through their collection and products. “The mission was to showcase a series of collectionfeaturing designers championing sustainability and eco-friendly fashion practices. Liva has taken this step of associating with FDCI to support responsible fashion across the value chain,” said Mr. Rajeev Gopal, Global Chief Sales and Marketing Officer, Birla Cellulose on Liva’s association with FDCI. “With textiles consumptions increasing by the hour and the emergence of fast fashion, the industry at large must realize the need for sustainability to save the future” he further added.

The Lotus Make-Up India Fashion Week Autumn Winter’ 2019 at the Jawahar Lal Nehru Stadium in Delhi was most exciting event for the fashion lovers in the national capital which came to find out what is new in Indian fashion. With inputs from – Vogue India / HT/Indulge Expr  ess

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(Onkareshwar Pandey is Editor in Chief & CEO, Indian Observer Post, and former Senior Group Editor- Rashtriya Sahara (Hindi & Urdu) and also former Editor - News, ANI. http://bit.ly/2mh7hih)

Photos by – Sujan Singh


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